A REVIEW OF PIZZA RESTAURANT

The perpetually packed Mulberry Road place has some critical pizza cred: It had been Started by 3rd-era pizza maker Angelo “AJ” Pappalardo, who died at age 40 in 2015, and his father, Joe Pappalardo of Joe & Pat’s in Staten Island. The crisp, skinny-crust pies contain a standout vodka-sauced iteration, and therefore are supplemented by a slew